Santa Barbara – the epicenter of tough hill climbing in southern California? Quite possibly. While the mountain roads ringing Santa Barbara do not climb as high as those in the LA area (6-8k+ for some), they do provide for some very stout climbing. Old San Marcos/Painted Cave, Gibraltar and Figueroa Mountain are three of the toughest, most scenic climbs around. Refugio Road ranks right up there with these climbs. This is a steep and scenic climb about 20 miles north of Santa Barbara just off the 101. Given the slightly more remote location and the fact that it is not a through road (unless you are willing to descend down a rough dirt road on the other side), Refugio gets very little car traffic. It gets significantly less traffic than Old San Marcos or Gibraltar – and those climbs don’t get all that much traffic.
Refugio has one more thing going for it that rarely gets mentioned – you can (and should) connect with West Camino Cielo at the top of the Refugio climb. The Camino Cielo section is much more mellow (aside from the last mile or so), but offers one of the most beautiful and scenic stretches of climbing in southern California. Taken together, this ride has it all – super steep stretches, great scenery and sustained climbing (you start at almost sea level and hit ~4000 ft in elevation).
Important Stats:
Refugio Rd Section:
Main climb: 8.6% for 3.7 miles
Steepest section: 10.0% for 2.4 miles
First ~0.5 miles of climbing: Just under 15%!
W Camino Cielo Section:
5.8% for 5.7 miles (1740 ft gained)
4,000 ft elevation summit point
~9% for last mile steep push
8%+ steeper mile-long section early on
Aside from the two steep sections above, Camino Cielo is very mellow
Small descent just past the 3 mile point
Anyway, this last weekend I got to ride this with my mom. Since it has been about a year since I last rode this, I was definitely looking forward to it. We parked just off the 101 along Refugio Rd – one of the few spots you can park for free in the area. Being right near the ocean, this spot was covered in fog:
The fog was actually welcome – on a climbing ride fog is very pleasant to have. Unfortunately, the fog quickly disappeared:
On the other hand, this meant the views would be nice. After a couple of miles of cycling through orchards, we start hitting some more forested sections:
Soon, we hit the gorgeous Circle Bar B Guest Ranch:
Most traffic you encounter will be going no further than here. After passing by Circle Bar B, the climbing starts in earnest (and with some great color!):
Of course, the shade disappears just as you really start climbing:
The next 2+ miles average over 10%. These are 2 tough miles. What a road to climb up though:
Some of the boulders above the road just don’t look very stable..
The climbing continues!
The views back down the valley (and of the road just ascended) start getting impressive:
You’d be happy climbing through this scenery too:
The start of the last really steep climbing section:
A bit farther and you get a glimpse of one impressive house (and more than a glimpse of some more steep tarmac):
Looking back:
The views open up even more as you near the end of the Refugio climb:
And, finally, one cool forested section before the end of the climb:
And, success! The top of Refugio!
At this point, we have gone from just above sea level to just over 2200 feet in elevation. Additionally, we have conquered the really tough part. The rest of the climb is cake in comparison. Speaking of which (the climb, not cake!), the rest of the ride continues climbing up along West Camino Cielo to about 4000 feet in elevation.
Camino Cielo is marked as not maintained by the county:
Oddly enough, this “not maintained” stretch had the best asphalt of the whole ride.
The climbing along Camino Cielo gets beautiful very quickly:
We saw one other rider during our whole ride:
Nice road:
After a couple of miles, you get some views of the Santa Ynez valley (you are basically climbing along a ridgeline along Camino Cielo):
The scenery is amazing:
Amazingly, there were still a lot of flowers in bloom (late June in southern California!):
The panoramas really open up along this road:
Climbing to the sky:
Click on those for larger, much more awesome panoramas. From the picasa site, you can download the full size versions of those photos.
Amazing mountains:
Amazing valley views:
And this was the oddest site to stumble upon:
A little pool/reservoir perched up along the ridge. I have no idea if this is natural or man-made, but I can say that this was a very surprising sight along this climb.
The last stretch of Camino Cielo gets ridiculously scenic:
Wow.
The last 9% push to the end:
And, finally, the last paved portion (and the end of the climb!):
Take a little jaunt up the paved portion on the left to hit 4000 feet in elevation.
And, be happy that you conquered this amazing climb:
Sweet views. And the views along the descent are simply stunning:
Again, wow.
The descent along Camino Cielo is very pleasant – generally good road surface and minimal rock debris. With that said, you still have to slow down for the blind corners (this is basically a one lane road, after all). The descent down Refugio, however, is one of the worst descents I have ever suffered down. The patchwork that is the tarmac is extremely rough and bumpy. The road seems to constantly want to pry your handlebars from your control. The grade also quickly gets you up to speeds that are too fast for the road surface quality. This is a demanding descent that is heavy on the brakes.
Since you will be going slow down Refugio, you might as well appreciate the crazy switchbacks and climbing that you conquered earlier in the day:
Click on that last image for a much higher quality version of that truly insane switchback. And proof that I can climb said insane switchback:
And descending down the last steep section:
That switchback – at the very beginning of the climb – is what lets you know that Refugio is a rather stiff climb. Crazy, quite definitely.
Finally, after all that descending, you get some gentle road riding back to the coast:
Head on down below the parking area and check out Refugio State Beach:
This gorgeous beach is quite popular in the summer for both day use and camping. If you’ve got a family, this is a perfect set up. You and the family park at Refugio. The family enjoys a nice day at the beach. You enjoy a nice climb up Refugio/Camino Cielo. You reconvene with the family at the beach and take a soak in the ocean to cool down after the ride. Even better, you then have a picnic/bbq at this point. Sounds like a good plan, no?
Ok, there is one last part to this ride report. Yeah, I know. It is long enough already! True. However, this report would not be complete without mention of Aniso Trail:
This bike path connects Refugio Beach State Park with El Capitan Beach State Park (about 3 miles away). This path is technically closed (and the people working at the beaches will tell you that it is impassable) due to erosion. This, however, is not entirely true. The entire stretch can be traversed – you just have to skirt two closure fences (as many hikers/walkers do). Normally, this would not be worth the trouble. However, in the case of this bike path, it is definitely worth it. The scenery is spectacular (like you need more spectacular scenery after climbing Refugio/Camino Cielo!):
One of the closure gates:
Just hop around it to the left. Yes, you will have to dismount.
Not bad for some final scenery, in my opinion.
Here is the full ride in mapmyride format:
Here is the full climb from the start of the climbing section on Refugio Rd to Santa Ynez Peak:
The Refugio Rd climbing section:
The steep part of the Refugio Rd climbing section (click on View Elevation for this one!):
And, the West Camino Cielo section:
My Garmin Connect page for the ride:
Refugio is an under-appreciated climb in the Santa Barbara region. It really has everything you could want – steepness, scenery, length (if you include the Camino Cielo section, as you should) and low traffic. Yeah, the tarmac sucks, but that is a small price to pay for everything else that the climb has to offer. Get up there soon while the hills are still green and the flowers are still colorful.
Cheers,
Ryan
about 2 years ago
Again, what a wonderful photo essay of this climb. A couple of summers ago, I did this climb with a couple of friends and I did the climb to the end of the paved section of West Camino Cielo from Goleta (looking to do something different from the ‘familiar’ Gibraltar and Painted Cave climbs). That day (I think it was in August), it was particularly hot on the top of the ridge. Fortunately, there was a family having a picnic of all things at the top of the climb near the radio towers which had extra food and water. But, the views were awesome.
Continue highlighting these rides, well-known or not!
about 2 years ago
Thanks for the comment Brian! Camino Cielo as a whole is one of the most incredible ridge roads I have had the pleasure of cycling. Stunning views all along the way.
Lucky for you to actually find a family with food and water to spare! Parts of Camino Cielo can be pretty empty of people.
And yes, I will continue to highlight rides like this. When you love a ride, it makes it much easier to put together a ride report. I’ve got a couple of new ones to put up soon
about 2 years ago
Great report and images. I live in Ohio but go out there every March for my own 10 day “training” camp. Went up the dirt side of Refugio and then down the paved section to Refugio Beach, thinking “Wow, this must be a heck of an ascent” Now, after reading your blog I can see I was correct. I’ll be back out there in August and will climb the paved side. I posted my experience on my cycling blog. If interested, click on “Mark’s Cycling Blog” at http://www.granvillebike.com. Go to March reports. Again, thanks.
about 2 years ago
Great blog Mark! I read your report on your 10 day “training” camp. Sounds like you had a great time out here and you obviously found some of the best climbs/rides in the area – Gibraltar, Fig, Jalama, Tepusquet, Foxen, Drum Canyon, Cat Canyon…all excellent choices. When you come out next, feel free to send me an email (click the Contact Me link at the top of the page) and see if I am around for a ride. And definitely give Refugio a try. The scenery is great (especially along the Camino Cielo portion of the climb).
about 2 years ago
Wow, this is an amazing blog! Will definitely try to check out some of your rides when I am in the area. How much time does it add to your rides to take all these beautiful pictures?
about 2 years ago
Thanks! When I first started, I had to stop every time I wanted to take a photo. This added significant time to my rides. Now, most of my shots are taken while riding. I keep the camera in my jersey pocket and can easily whip it out on most sections and snap a shot (except on descents or really steep sections). I’d say a good 80% or more of shots are taken while riding. The rest don’t usually add too much time (although some descents are so beautiful that I do stop fairly often!).
Enjoy your riding, and please add a comment to any climb that you end up doing with your impressions on the climb!
about 2 years ago
I’ve done the Refugio – W. Camino Ciello – San Marcos Pass – 101 loop twice and was in so much pain each time I couldn’t enjoy the scenery. I ate doughnuts, salted cashews, and diet soda (about 3 liters) throughout the trip and never hit the wall aerobically. But it was rough.
The only tougher climb I’ve done was Little Pine. The abandoned mercury mine is somewhere along the way (not far from the Gibraltar Dam) and is very interesting to look around. The trail switchbacks along sun-drenched sandstone walls with no breeze so bring that second 2L bottle.
about 2 years ago
Great to hear from someone who has actually done that loop. I’m curious how steep/tough the dirt section is. The views should be incredible along it, at the very least.
Little Pine sounds like a fun suffer-fest. If I ever get a mountain bike, I’ll have to try it out.
about 2 years ago
Rallison,
Should have checked in before. Did climb Refuggio from the ocean in August, 2010. The dirt side going into Solvang was graded and cars were driving it. All the deep gutter areas in the middle and sides of the “road” had been filled in. Surface was not yet packed so my wheels would sink in places but I bet now it is ridable, as long as erosion has not recreated the mini “canyons” in the road. Will be back out there in March, 2011 for 10 days and can’t wait. Ohio weather has been worse than normal and in very sad shape for what awaits in Santa Ynez Valley. This time, rather than riding alone, I decided to hook up with Cycling Escapes and try the supported group ride thing for part of my trip.
about 2 years ago
Awesome to hear about the back side of Refugio! Although the storms this year may have changed things, I’ll have to check it out. I’d love to ride the back side. Have fun this month in Santa Ynez! Should be a nice change of pace from Ohio. Have a picnic and some wine at Foxen (at their original, rustic shack location) or Rusack (beautiful, beautiful setting) while you’re out there.
about 2 years ago
Thanks for the description and pics. I did this ride last weekend on my hybrid mountain bike. Chain came off once and I stopped two other times to recover. Really starting to cramp near the top. Turned around at the maintenance sign. The ride down was easier cardio-wise, but you are right, it is rough!
I can see why President Reagan had his ranch on this rode – breathtaking and not too crowded.
about 1 year ago
Sorry for the delay in responding. Refugio is a tough little climb – congrats on making it up! The ascent and descent may be tough, but the views more than make up for the suffering (at least in my opinion).
about 9 months ago
Really liked your comments and pics of this ride. I was on Refugio by car two weeks ago on my way to rusack and some other wineries in the area. Next day on the way back we went over west camino cielo and the views were amazing. My wife and I are from new York visiting sister and bro-in-law. The funny part was that my bro-in-law was taking us offroading in his new land rover and as we were really climbing west camino cielo I see an old vw bus gaining on us so we let them by and on top we see the old bus pulled over with an old beetle convert that had come up the other way through San Marco pass. I think it somewhat deflated bro-in-law. Found your blog searching for the elevation of Refugio Thanks.
about 9 months ago
Thanks! The views along West Camino Cielo really are pretty incredible (as are some of the rock fields – Lizard’s Mouth, the Playground). Funny story about your brother in law. And, Rusack – what a location! We often grab a bottle of their syrah (quite nice for the price) and enjoy a picnic on their patio or lawn. And, for those who don’t feel like packing a picnic, you can get excellent sandwiches at Panino in Los Olivos, just a few miles from Rusack.
Anyway, glad you enjoyed the report and pictures!
about 2 months ago
Well, I must be a creature of habit as in less than two weeks I will once again, I think for the 7th straight year, go from sucky Ohio weather to glorious CA and will again ride up Refugio. This time I am touring with Planet Ultra folks. I know the area as well as any of them but it’s comforting to have a van close by if something happens. I’m inspired by your reports on climbs around Ojai so I probably will try one of them too. Keep the reports coming!